Stylish Thought

The recent hiring of a white fashion director at Essence Magazine, a historic lifestyle and fashion publication for African-American women, has spurred a fashion debate rooted in issues of race, diversity and least of all fashion.

When I first heard the news about the hiring of Ellianna Placas (formerly of O magazine) I didn’t know exactly how to process it. There were so many conversations going on around the issue. Clutch magazine broke the story, the Huffington Post picked it up, Michaela Angela Davis and Nawja Moses responded with upset and heartbreak. What did  it all really mean, I wondered?

Essence magazine is a totem in the black community. In its 42 year history, Essence has celebrated Black woman and sought out to represent them in a way they were not previously represented. It bought out our tastes and showed us in our various shapes, colors and lifestyles. It was the essence of us as Black women; varied, distinct and full of heart. It is less an issue of hiring a white woman and more what that hiring of means.

For some it means the whitewashing of our culture to others it means foolishly turning the other cheek while other fashion publications continue to exclude us.  And for others Essence has fully betrayed their audience. While I understand these sentiments I don’t fully agree with them.

How can we as black people preach diversity, the need for more inclusion in the mainstream fashion industry and then turn around and close our doors? It’s a move of reverse-exclusion. The hiring of Placas has nothing to do with the audience. Essence will still continue to showcase black women, feature them on their covers and in their pages and show us in a positive light. The minute that changes then we have a problem.

As a black woman, one devoted to fashion and writing, I see both sides of the coin. But instead of looking at it as a betrayal I choose to see it as a step in the direction that the world should be going; less about race and more about talented people integrating. Mainstream fashion magazines need to take note from Essence’s lead and begin to be more inclusive.

What are your thoughts on the Essence issue?

The world (and Hollywood) has gone comic crazy. Comic-Con has taken over San Diego and if you watch G4 (like the geek I am) there’s non-stop coverage. I mean what’s not to love about superheros, villians and the stans that dress up like them. Comic costumes are magnificently  stylish. All the rubber, molded chests and cool utility belts with infinite gadgets. If I were a superhero (and yes I’ve thought about it, the Stylish Sorcerer would be my name) my costume would be gaudy and full of bows that double as ninja darts.

My alter ego aside, here is my top 5 most stylish comic characters:

1. Wonder Woman

This one is a given. Who else can pull of a patriotic leotard, powerful metal cuffs and tiara all while lassoing a whip and managing to not have a hair out of place.

2. Storm (X-Men)

In some variations Storm wears all white, a two piece and even all black leather. But her signature that no artist can change is her long white locks. Forget Anderson Cooper, Storm is the original silver fox. Controling the weather at a whim (we really need her during this heatwave) she wore her gray with pride.

3. The Joker

The only man to make the list. The Joker had eccentric style by the case load (not to mention mental issues). What man do you know can pull off white Kabuki makeup and red lips? All while being pathologically crazy and rocking a purple overcoat.

4. Sailor Moon

She is the one named Sailor Moon. How can you have a style list and not include Sailor Moon. Schoolgirl uniforms that transformed into tart skirts, long blonde pigtails and red go-go boots. Growing up my sisters and I would fight over who was Sailor, I mean she was the only one that mattered.

5. Catwoman

Black leather, cat ears, tall black boots and I’m talking the original felines (not Ms. Berry, Ms. Berry). Way before fitted black leather was fashion’s staple, Catwoman was the original fierce superhero and she still is.

ETA: Thanks Melina for this! Tim Gunn is the light of my life.

Who are your favorite stylish superheroes?

Put away the lace and frills and rummage through your gentleman’s closet. While it may seem counter-intuitive, women dressing in menswear is the perfect way to channel your femininity. Katherine Hepburn notoriously wore trousers when Hollywood starlets were all about the glam, Annie Hall revolutionized the way we look at a vest and tie, hell Whoopi Goldberg couldn’t dress any more manly, but I digress.

Menswear worn fitted to the female silhouette brings about the kind of androgyny that made Annie Lennox and Bianca Jagger sex symbols. Sure a girl in stilettos is sexy, but a woman in a top hat and vest is sharp and sexy.  Borrowing from the boys isn’t just about wearing a button up or slapping on a tie, it’s a slick mix of the masculine elements of sharp tailoring with feminine detailing and coloring.

Sharp Shirts

What’s a man in a suit without an amazingly fitted shirt? Whether crisp white or light pinstripes this is a menswear staple that can be paired with everything from trousers to skinnies, depending on what type of “guy” you’re channeling.

Trousers, but of course

Unless you plan on wearing a kilt, the options for male skirts are limiting. Diane Keaton is a master of the loose-fitting trouser. Paired with a thin belt and feminine blouse, you’ll look as smart (if not smarter) than most chaps.

Blazer a trail

Blazers are a crossover item, being as much feminine as they are masculine. To channel more of the men’s side, go for over-sized in the sleeve and longer lengths while still being a bit fitted in the waist.

Be Inspired in Accessories

There’s nothing more trite than wearing a fedora or spectator heel, so you won’t read that here. Go for lesser know accessories like the bowler hat, pocket watch, brogues or pocket square. Still manly but less predictable.

And because I can’t resist Deniece Williams (or a good pun)

Are you in touch with your masculine side? What menswear staples do you love?

Katy Perry is my alterego.. the Sasha Fierce to my Beyonce. Now I know I’m uber-late, just having watched the California Girls video, but where is this fantasical CandyLand place and how can I book my flight?!? The camp, the kitsch, the peppermint bras! Holy Smokes Batman! I’m in love with every element of this video and I’m working on a D.I.Y. whip cream shooting bra, as I type. Oh just you wait!

Sure the concept has nothing to do with California, but when the video is this fun who cares?!?

How do you feel about California Girls? Katy Perry? Be nice, she is half of me!

He stood in the Purple Rain and under the Cherry Moon, bathed in the waters of Lake Winnatonaka and partied like it was 1999 (never gets old). In the movie of my life (starring Sanaa Lathan as moi) Prince’s music provides the bass pumping, sex-infused soundtrack. Besides being a living musical legend (and bonafide F-O-X) Prince Rogers Nelson is a fashion GAWD! He’s the pioneer of 80’s glam and a champion for male heels and what’s not to love about a man who wraps his hair before bed. Talk about swagger.

With the recent Prince tribute at the BET awards, I’ve been reflecting on the things Prince, in all his splendor, has taught me about style.

Bell bottom flares never go out of style

Prince knows his proportions and flared bell bottoms seem to work for a man of his stature, go figure. He’s worn them for over 3 decades, now that’s commitment.  In crafting a signature style, knowing what works and sticking with it is key. The lesson: The Brady Bunch may be gone, but bell bottoms are here to stay

Your facial expressions are the ultimate accessory

Prince is notorious for his shifting eyes and sexual expressions, like he’s undressing you with mind control. Whether you adopt some kooky eyewear or lip pout, your face should be a shinning beacon to your inner moist most thoughts. The lesson: Face, face, face give them FACE!

Lake Winnatonka is the fountain of youth

And speaking of face, Prince’s skin is like supple buttermilk. The man doesn’t age. Maybe it’s bathing in the waters of Lake Winnatonka or Pond’s cold cream but flawless skin is the ultimate in poised presentation. The lesson: If Prince says get naked and jump in lake, I’ll be the first one in line

Imitation is the sincerest form of Imitation

Prince is an original and while there’s an army of imitators (Rihanna, Keri Hilson, Me) there’s only one Prince Rogers. But do you think  he’s sweating these imitators, hell naw. He loves it and even cleverly crafted the personae of Vanity 6 to be a female likeness of himself. The lesson: Imitate and interpret away

You can never have enough ruffles

This is a no-brainer. A ruffled blouse is a go-to staple for any burgeoning sex gawd and it takes a real man to wear an Edwardian blouse to rival Henry VII. The lesson: Ruffles=Style

Heels are mandatory

A champion for male heels (or lifts as they’re referred to in the orthopedic community) Prince defied convention long before Gaga  had her male stiletto army. Can you imagine Prince asking for a higher heel on his boots and the female clerk looking perplexed? The lesson: We all need a little Lift in life.

Assless pants, yes please!

I remember watching the 1991 MTV music awards when Prince did an about-face to the camera bearing his ASSests. Talk about balls, which thankfully were concealed. For better (or worse) the image is etched in my brain and while Gaga is raising flags with blurred crotch, Prince is the originator in this thing called Shock, no censorship needed. The lesson: “Showing your ass” can be a good thing

Let your clothes do the talking, so you don’t have to

When not shrieking on a track, Prince’s speaking voice is particularly soft-spoken. His style speaks volumes so he doesn’t have to. The lesson: A crushed velvet onesie doesn’t need much explaining

Consistency is key

From the early 80s to today, not much as changed in the way of Prince’s style. He’ll always been the Glam King and guess what: it works! Sure he’s traded his lace for matching two-piece bell bottom suits, but his ensembles are always indelibly Prince. The lesson: Be consistent in your kookiness

Be Yourself but if you can’t, be Prince

And that brings me to the biggest lesson the Artist Formerly known as Prince has taught me. True style comes from being yourself or referencing someone much cooler and stylish like him and calling it inspiration. Whatever works. The lesson: Be yourself, but borrow heavily from Prince’s repertoire.

Do you love Prince’s style? What off-the-wall star inspires your style?

It seems that the ‘10 will be the decade of the Quirky Girl (you heard it here first). The Rhoda to the sweet Mary Tyler Moore. The Lucy to the well meaning Ethel. Fran Drescher to the stick up the butt C.C. Babcock. The eccentric, goofy friend that reads Proust, wears abstract designers and knows of every underground artist a year before they hit the mainstream. You love her but secretly wonder how the hell she got so damn cool (and crazy).

Quirky Girls Past & Present

While eccentricity has been in style for a few seasons now (ushered back in by American Apparel and Pabst’s Blue Ribbon) true quirky girls have stood the test of time and waved their kooky flags long before it was deemed “cool” to shave off your hair and rock shredded leggings. From the 50’s and 60s counterculture to the club kids, women living and dressing outside of the box is not a new theme. Peggy Guggenheim and Josephine Baker flaunted their eccentricities; Peggy known for her love of surrealist art and outrageous eye-wear and Ms. Baker with her legendary stage acts; nudity and live animals. It doesn’t get any more quirky than that. Anna Piaggi with her borderline clown attire and the late Isabella Blow and her signature headpieces are in the idiosyncratic style hall of fame.

Looking to the outrageous women of yesteryear, it seems that what is deemed “quirky” today is child’s play. Fashion has bastardized what it really means to be stylistically unique (and having a closet of day-glo leggings and giant bows is not it). When I think of quintessential quirk and women whose style is not tied up in pretty dresses and sex appeal, these modern women come to mind.

My fairy Weird Mothers

Long before her polygamous fame, Chloe Sevigny was the picture of indie cool. Even with her current stardom, her style remains her own. She stays true to her modern vintage sensibility and dedication to independent designers. She has a million devotees in leather skirts and ray bans yet the fashion impresario remains true to the easy cool that has been hers from the very beginning.

Dita Von Teese is what I like to call retro quirk. You never see her out of character and her commitment to a look alone solidifies her as the quirkiest of the modern burlesque girls.  Beginning her career as a stripper and fetish model, Dita’s outward appearance is a clear manifestation of who she is; feminine and nostalgic.

Hip hop eccentricity may seem like an oxymoron but Kelis carved a place as the wild child of R&B. Hair full of tie-dyed curls, nose piercing and Neptunes infused sound, Kelis stuck out among the willowy songstresses of the late 90’s. Her style a mashup of Dynasty, Prince and Harlem girl; she doesn’t shy away from haircuts or headpieces and holds her reign as the offbeat black girl in a sea of rap video vixens.

Quirky Girls Society Honorary Members: Isabel Toledo, Janelle Monae, Solange Knowles, Genevieve Jones, RuPaul, Beth Ditto

Channeling your Inner Captain Quirk

The thread that holds these women together is an uniqueness that is fundamentally them. What makes a girl “quirky” is less in her dress and more in her state of mind. It permeates everything from the shoes she wears, the books she reads, the music she bumps and the men (or women) she loves. The only real way to be quirky is to be yourself, wholeheartedly. Not a carbon copy of the latest trends, because that’s the furthest thing from it. 

Who are your “quirky” style idols? What makes your style unique?