The recent hiring of a white fashion director at Essence Magazine, a historic lifestyle and fashion publication for African-American women, has spurred a fashion debate rooted in issues of race, diversity and least of all fashion.
When I first heard the news about the hiring of Ellianna Placas (formerly of O magazine) I didn’t know exactly how to process it. There were so many conversations going on around the issue. Clutch magazine broke the story, the Huffington Post picked it up, Michaela Angela Davis and Nawja Moses responded with upset and heartbreak. What did it all really mean, I wondered?
Essence magazine is a totem in the black community. In its 42 year history, Essence has celebrated Black woman and sought out to represent them in a way they were not previously represented. It bought out our tastes and showed us in our various shapes, colors and lifestyles. It was the essence of us as Black women; varied, distinct and full of heart. It is less an issue of hiring a white woman and more what that hiring of means.
For some it means the whitewashing of our culture to others it means foolishly turning the other cheek while other fashion publications continue to exclude us. And for others Essence has fully betrayed their audience. While I understand these sentiments I don’t fully agree with them.
How can we as black people preach diversity, the need for more inclusion in the mainstream fashion industry and then turn around and close our doors? It’s a move of reverse-exclusion. The hiring of Placas has nothing to do with the audience. Essence will still continue to showcase black women, feature them on their covers and in their pages and show us in a positive light. The minute that changes then we have a problem.
As a black woman, one devoted to fashion and writing, I see both sides of the coin. But instead of looking at it as a betrayal I choose to see it as a step in the direction that the world should be going; less about race and more about talented people integrating. Mainstream fashion magazines need to take note from Essence’s lead and begin to be more inclusive.
I’m with you, sis. I see both sides of the coin, but this isn’t a sore point for me. It’s not like she’s EIC…which I think a lot of people don’t understand.
Exactly! A black women is still EIC and to be completely honest Time Warner owns Essence, so who is really behind our image…
So lemme pose a question to you..and I believe its a valid one… How would you feel is Essence was ran by mostly whites? Does the number make a difference to you?
I see the business side of this as a strategic move, but also @darling_kitty made a good point, in that, does this mean we cannot be at the helm of our own mags?
This is a sticky situation, as is most race debates, but with the good what also must be taken into account is the heritage, culture and tradition that cannot be replicated.This is not just a lifestyle mag, its a mag for and about Afr Amer women..so race is gonna be a focus.
But as u do, I hope for the positive…*shrugs*
I don’t think it means that we can’t be at the helm but I think people need to understand that if she was the best choice then what does race have to do with it. It’s like Malcolm X (my favorite black leader) before he went to Mecca. He preached exclusion of white people, but once he saw that Islam was without color, he backtracked and said white people could help further his cause. If a white woman wants to work promoting black fashion and black women than more power to her.
On a side note: Essence features mostly white designers in their fashion spreads….
Touche
“How can we as black people preach diversity, the need for more inclusion in the mainstream fashion industry and then turn around and close our doors?
…. But instead of looking at it as a betrayal I choose to see it as a step in the direction that the world should be going; less about race and more about talented people integrating. Mainstream fashion magazines need to take note from Essence’s lead and begin to be more inclusive.”
Those were the two thoughts that crossed my mind, to be honest. But then again– I’m a young, white woman. To many, my voice or opinoin isn’t valid on the subject… and to a certain degree, I agree with them. I can’t fully understand the role of Essence in the black community, as a place for women. I can understand from an academic perspective or an empathic perspective, but from experience I can’t…
That being said, I hope that race has nothing to do with qualifications, and that fashion overall becomes more inclusive of all women. I think if magazines were, that women overall would have a greater understanding of what other races go through– in the name of beauty, culture, society, etc.
Ashe, you most certainly can have an opinion and it’s very valid. Race is a sensitive topic but it’s not exclusive to black people. I think what’s upsetting to some is that they feel a black woman should have gotten the job to continue to further blacks in fashion. To that I say that maybe Placas was the only truly qualified one (I mean she did come from O). Fashion is such a tight-knit circle that they always promote from within the ranks, whether its a white or black woman. And I agree fashion needs to be more inclusive across the board.
Thanks for the comment my darling!
“How can we as black people preach diversity, the need for more inclusion in the mainstream fashion industry and then turn around and close our doors?”
This is exactly it! Very well stated!
Thank you!
I’m glad you brought this issue up, because I think it’s much bigger than just the immediate Essence topic. Even growing up as a minority, I’ve almost never paid too much attention to the race issue, because I’ve always tried to concentrate first and foremost on human nature as a whole. Which might sound a bit cliche, but I honestly think diversity can move so easily from celebration to a distraction from whatever is the main issue at hand. Unfortunately, racism & general biases have rendered it virtually impossible for us to just move on. I feel like getting involved in this debate has become a necessary evil.
That being said, I absolutely embrace what you’ve said about the focus shifting to be “less about race and more about talented people integrating.” That, my friend, is the kind of stylish thinking that will pull us out of these petty controversies! The ideas and abilities of individuals should always take precedent- no amount of affirmative action (in either direction) alone will ever produce comparable results
I agree that entering into these conversations is inevitable. As minorities, we have to acknowledge that we have lesser representation is fashion, but that doesn’t mean we need to diminish other people to bring ourselves up. Thanks for the comment Tessa!
[...] Stylish Thought: Losing Out Essence: Issues of Race in Fashion [...]
I am very torn on this one. On the one hand, I totally get what you mean about creating diversity throughout the fashion industry. period. however, I am also inclined to think…hmmm, you mean to tell me that there wasn’t a single equally qualified black woman out there that wouldn’t have loved to have this opportunity? That being said, fair is fair. If Placas is the best for the job, so be it.
I agree that I’m certain there are qualified Black women out there, but Placas as a relationship with the magazine already, and we all know the fashion industry is not keen to outsiders. Thanks for the comment!
I’m with you on this. Both sides make fair arguments and I don’t completely disagree with the choice Essence made. Saying that this woman (I don’t remember her name) shouldnt have been hired because she is white is the same as saying that a white person shouldnt be able to direct a black choir or teach a hip-hop dance class. I’ve also read that she contributed to the magazine for 6 months prior to her being hired, so if black fashion is something that she is passionate about and she is capable of completing the vision that the magazine has, more power to her.
I concur Tiara! Well said, thanks for the comment!
[...] Stylish Thought: Losing Out Essence: Issues of Race in Fashion [...]
[...] Stylish Thought: Losing Out Essence: Issues of Race in Fashion [...]
Issues of segregation of any sort, including self-imposed segregation make me uncomfortable. I’m torn on the idea of racial or sex based “spaces.” On the one hand, these spaces were at one point necessary due to the rampant discrimination and inequality. These spaces didn’t fix the core issue, but they at least made dealing with it more bearable.
On the other… I question now if diversity needs a strong helping hand. I question now if these spaces aren’t actually contributing to artificial and meaningless lines being drawn. You cannot undo 600 years of colonialism, slavery, and racism by trying to tilt the scales in the other direction during one or two generations. It just doesn’t work.
I’m white, and male, but I had a very anti-discrimination upbringing, and had a wonderful opportunity in college to be dual enrolled at both a major state university and an HBCU. Going to classes on a mixed up schedule meant going back and forth between these two worlds multiple times a day. The African-American culture was one I struggled with, and I might as well have been in another country, given my suburban white history. However, it also crystalised for me some of the ways African-Americans intentionally segregated themselves and created rituals and standards that did so.
This doesn’t excuse the overt racism I suddenly became even more acutely aware of from some groups on the major university campus. By far, one of the most egregious examples was a black face party thrown by a fraternity I was pledging. You can be assured, I walked right out and never went back. I was disgusted, and it wasn’t as though the fraternity was unaware I was also attending an HBCU.
I suppose I consider a diversity in staff of Essence a step in the right direction. And at some point, hopefully, we will have African-American editors of mostly white demographic magazines, and a white editor of Essence. And maybe we’ll see Asian or Pacific islander magazines? And suddenly what we have won’t be “spaces” that indicate segregated factions, but rather a whole lot of options, that everyone can draw inspiration from.
Kionon, I think it’s amazing that you got to experience both sides of college life and see that while AA can segregate themselves, racism and exclusion is still alive on “majority” campuses. I see this as a step in the right direction because it brings the issue to the forefront and majority publications can’t continue to ignore the lack of diversity anymore. Thanks for such an amazing comment!
I agree with the article, I prefer to look at things from both sides, its all about equality.